The Cutting Room Floor

By OMONDI

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Description

Fashion's Only Fashion Show. Hosted by designer, Recho Omondi.

Episode Date
S3 EP2: Mailbox Money feat. Allison Zamora
38:33

Today we talk about fashion licensing. Allison Zamora is a licensing executive who started her career at Calvin Klein and later went to LVMH. She walks us through the mechanism of licensing and how it's changed over the years. 

Jan 13, 2021
S3 EP1: The End of Fashion feat. Teri Agins
50:48

Teri Agins covered fashion at The Wall Street Journal for 20 years. In 1999, she published her first book, The End of Fashion; How Marketing Changed the Clothing Business Forever. A friend lent me the book and it collected dust on my desk for months before I decided to pick it up; at which point I couldn’t put it down. This book is fashion reporting unlike I’ve ever seen of the industry. As Vanity Fair declared, “The End of Fashion rips into the underbelly of a world where marketing is king and often the emperor has no clothes.”

Jan 01, 2021
The Cutting Room Floor: Season Recap
02:01

Recap of Season 1 & 2. Peak at Season 3. 

Dec 26, 2020
S2 EP10: Tibi: An Evolving Identity Feat. Amy Smilovic
01:05:08

Amy Smilovic, the founder of Tibi, took a lifelong passion and created a burgeoning fashion label. Listen in as she relates why she took the leap into creating fashion, why she later made a major pivot in her brand, and what it has taken to keep everything moving and evolving in the ever-changing world of fashion. Amy is completely transparent about what it took to create Tibi as well all the twists and turns she’s navigated throughout the past 20 years since its creation. You won’t want to miss this in-depth look at a paragon of the fashion industry.

TIME STAMPS

  • (00:19) Welcome back to the last show of 2019 with the founder of Tibi, Amy Smilovic.
  • (02:06) Learn about the competitors of Tibi before the rebrand.
  • (03:00) Amy shares the meaning behind the name and her early inspiration.
  • (04:45) The birth of Tibi, the first collection, and the gap the brand filled.
  • (08:02) Why did Amy’s designs turn in to a labor of hate?
  • (10:30) When did Amy decide to make a change?
  • (13:33) How did she get her staff on board with the new direction?
  • (15:47) Amy chats about the birth of 4.collective and how it funded the new Tibi.
  • (18:39) How was the original Tibi initially funded, built, and promoted?>
  • (24:16) Hear how Amy’s husband’s opinion of Tibi has changed over the years.
  • (27:43) Learn how Amy’s marketing background helped propel Tibi into American stores.
  • (31:14) After four years Amy and her husband relocated to the U.S.
  • (33:21) Amy reminisces over the terrors of shipping guidelines and having her mom ship products.
  • (35:49) Sustainability was important from the beginning as was keeping the local feel.
  • (38:52) Amy’s dad’s advice led to the true establishment of Tibi in Soho.
  • (43:54) Hear how that same advice helped her to let go of her need to be recognized by the establishment in fashion.
  • (45:17) Learn how the lack of coverage on the Tibi brand in U.S. fashion publications speaks to the country’s opinion of women as designers.
  • (52:18) When should the leaders in the establishment pass the baton to the next generation?
  • (53:53) Amy shares two of her proudest accomplishments with her business.
  • (57:53) How social media has helped keep Tibi and Amy relevant in today’s world.
  • (1:01:30) Amy chats about the imposter syndrome she’s dealt with for 20 years.
  • (1:04:18) Connect with Amy.

Links & Resources:

OMONDI on Instagram

OMONDI on Twitter

OMONDI Newsletter

Tibi

Tibi on Instagram

Tibi on Facebook

Tibi on Pinterest

Tibi on Twitter

Amy on Instagram

What They Don’t Teach You at Harvard Business School by Mark McCormack

Acquired Podcast

Jack Ma

Song: Hell N Back by Bakar

Oct 16, 2019
S2 EP9: The Afterlife of Clothing Feat. Liz Ricketts
53:51

What happens to our clothes once we get rid of them? Sustainability encourages that we ask *how* our clothes are made but few ask where they go at the end of their life cycle. Recorded at the University of Cincinnati, we sit down with former DAAP educator Elizabeth Ricketts about the clothing waste crisis, the invisible world of the second-hand clothing economy as seen in Accra, Ghana. 

TIME STAMPS

  • (00:24) Learn more about The Indx
  • (00:57) Intro: Liz’s Back Ground
  • (02:02) Today’s Topic: The Afterlife of Clothing
  • (02:51) What is sustainability and what it's not
  • (05:08) We are past the point of conferences
  • (05:37) Extracting finite resources
  • (06:57) Start with Waste
  • (07:47) Dissonance: Clothing as Waste
  • (08:33) Waste: Assumed Part of the Business
  • (09:19) Abundance vs Excess (Grocery Store)
  • (11:42) Recycling New Savior
  • (13:15) Deficit Myth
  • (14:20) Not “Goodwill” Deficit Statistics
  • (16:30) Research in Ghana: Landfill or Donate?
  • (19:35) Went to Ghana with 3 Questions
  • (21:17) Kantamanto and Ghana’s independence
  • (24:40) The Value of Clothing Bails
  • (26:04) The Importers and the Retailers
  • (27:24) What are Selections?
  • (29:00) Waste-Streams in Ghana
  • (30:29) Asana’s story
  • (34:29) Why Katamanto represents the future of fashion.
  • (36:03) How do we get people to care?
  • (38:32) The future is local
  • (41:52) Knowledge is Experience - and how this applies to fashion
  • (45:03) Age and dissonance
  • (46:23) What you can do today to understand the waste crisis.
  • (50:12) Why single-use t-shirts are killing the industry.
  • (52:54) Connect with Liz: @theorispresent, @SFI_cincinnati, Dead White Man’s Clothes

 

Links & Resources: 

The Indx

The University of Cincinnati - DAAP School of Design

Burberry Clothing Fire

Cradle to Cradle by William McDonough

Sep 25, 2019
S2 EP8: Live at A/D/O feat. Nesli Danisman
59:34

Live at the Brooklyn design studio A/D/O we listen in as Nesli Danisman, founder of Angora Group, shares how she became an expert in sourcing materials around the world.  Starting in as an assistant to Ralph Lauren and sourcing for nearly a decade for Marc Jacobs, Nesli describes her mission with Angora Group to help companies develop the best products with the best factories around the world. We close it out with some heavy-hitting questions from the audience that you won’t want to miss. 

TIME STAMPS

(00:15) Welcome back! We are live from Greenpoint Brooklyn at A/D/O

(01:12) Live introduction to the group at A/D/O.

(03:44) Special shout out to our sponsor, Indx.

(06:44) Intro: Nesli Danisman found of Angora Group.

(08:25) What does Angora Group do?

(10:11) … and what they don’t do.

(11:57) Is it true that more designers come to Angora Group versus just people with money?

(13:38) Nesli breaks down the 30/30/30 model.

(15:27) The vision behind Kanye’s pieces… that never came to

fruition.

(16:40) Nesli shares some of the brands Angora Group has worked with.

(17:36) Learn about the movement that was Charivari?

(20:58) What it was like to work in Ralph Lauren’s home and then in his company.

(22:16) Lab dips: what are they?

(23:33) FIT and Marc by Marc Jacobs.

(25:57) Why did Nesli leave MBMJ and how did she know she was ready to go out on her own?

(27:39) MBMJ was Nesli’s first client and the Apple collaboration.

(29:02) How does Nesli know so many people around the world?

(30:11) What is a factory rat and why Nesli identifies with them?

(31:15) Why is going to the factories so important and what do you learn?

(33:59) Discovering new factories for the best products and materials.

(36:31) Why teaching the client to fish is more economical and ethical than catching the fish.

(39:11) The difference between development and production.

(41:03) How PLMs help create efficiency in business and reduce waste.

(42:43) Trends: what’s reoccurring?

(44:24) Audience Q&A: superpower and where does Africa stand in the future of business.

(46:51) Characteristics that successful people tend to have? Blindspots?

(49:38) Does skillset and traditional schooling still matter?

(52:08) Is it possible to teach the big players how to be more responsible and sustainable?

(53:45) When did Nesli realize what she wanted to do?

(54:56) Final thank you’s and acknowledgments.

(57:57) Learn more about A/D/O.

(58:52) Shout out to Mr. Omondi

 

Links & Resources: 

A/D/O

Indx

Angora Group

Nesli Danisman

Liz Claiborne

Christopher Bailey

Burberry

Marc Jacobs

Rebecca Minkoff

UNTUCKit

Outdoor Voices

Charivari

Tom Ford

Bergdorf Goodman

Armani

Yohji

Comme

The Antwerp Six

Ralph Lauren

Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT)

LVMH

Hermes

Vuitton

Yunique PLM

Flex

Backbone

Hill House Home

 

Sep 14, 2019
S2 EP7: Live at Notre feat. Ava Nope
43:25
Live at Notre Chicago, Ava Niuri (@avanope) is head of special projects at Marc Jacobs. We discuss her Australian upbringing, her time at Helmut Lang and what she describes as "catfishing" of the creative brain.  


TIME STAMPS      

  • (0:39) @avanope
  • (1:12) Ava’s Background
  • (2:22) Fashion in Australia
  • (4:00) Fashion Writing
  • (5:00) Opening Ceremony
  • (6:37) Bootlegs
  • (12:33) “Entering the Fashion Industry”
  • (13:45) Instagram & Hiring 
  • (14:27) Helmut Lang
  • (16:42) Marc Jacobs 
  • (19:19) Collabs
  • (20:00) Marc Jacobs Sweatshirt
  •       

  • (21:42) Women in Streetwear 
  • (23:36) Keanu Reeves Project
  • (29:33) Ken Park Project 
  • (32:50) Fashion before the internet
  • (34:45) Vetements 
  • (35:51) DIY Culture
  • (36:56) Questions
  • (40:00) Magazines (Dazed and Confused)
  • (42:00) Sustainability/ ethical brands
  • (43:00) Regionalism
  •  

    Aug 13, 2019
    S2 EP6: Intro to Denim ft. Tiia Richardson
    50:04

    A denim specialist with over twenty years of experience tells us why the best studied at the house of Levi's. 

     


    TIME STAMPS 
  • (1:14) Adriano Goldschmeid
  • (2:42) Levi Strauss
  • (3:39) Tiia at Levi’s
  • (4:10) Levi’s tabs
  • (5:05) Tiia’s Work History
  • (6:40) Denim History
  • (8:27) Tommy Hilfiger x Hip Hop
  • (11:04) Marc Jacobs Denim
  • (12:10) Designer Jeanswear
  • (13:00) Genuine Denim
  • (14:30) Stretch Denim
  • (19:46) Calvin Klein
  • (21:52) Denim Pollution
  • (22:18) Laundries (Denim process)
  • (24:24) Role of a Denim Specialist
  • (25:09) Denim Finishes
  • (26:32) Stone washing
  • (27:30) Indigo
  • (28:39) 7 for All Mankind
  • (29:30) Premium Market
  • (30:56) Raw “Japanese” Denim
  • (33:11) Selvedge Denim
  • (33:11) Selvedge Denim
  • (35:55) Not a Purest
  • (37:00) Denim is a canvas
  • (38:56) Angora Group
  • (42:30) Black - Non Indigo Denim
  • (46:00) Partnering & Outsourcing
  • (48:00) Overseas & Local Manufacturing
  •  

    Jul 09, 2019
    S2 EP5: Having A Moment Feat. Martine Rose
    38:15

    Live in London at The Hoxton Hotel Martine shares her thoughts on “hype”; working for Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga and the influences of her youth.

    Jun 05, 2019
    S2 EP4: Orseund Iris feat. Lana Johnson
    37:20

    Founder, Lana Johnson tells us about writing her own playbook. 

    May 22, 2019
    S2 EP3: Founder of SHHHOWERCAP Jacquelyn De Jesu
    37:46

    Jacquelyn talks finding the white space in the market & reinventing the category of showercaps. 

    Apr 17, 2019
    S2 EP2: Lynette Nylander - Writer & Consultant
    57:46
    Mar 28, 2019
    S2 EP1: The Authenticity Deficit feat. A+
    42:20

    Andrea Pagliai describes why the culture of immediacy is compromising true talent development, how the influencer market will eventually implode and the growing need for quality over quantity.

    Mar 28, 2019
    S1 EP16: Glamour's Former Editor in Chief feat. Cindi Leive
    58:12

    Former Editor-in-Chief for 17 years, Cindi Leive speaks about print before the internet age. The conversation covers on feminism, womanhood, and the future of print media.

    Jan 16, 2019
    S1 EP15: SSENSE’s Deputy Editor feat. Durga Chew-Bose
    55:33

    Recorded at SSENSE HQ in Montréal, author, Durga Chew Bose explains her role as the Deputy Editor of SSENSE.com. 

    Jan 01, 2019
    S1 EP14: Alexander Wang’s Chief Strategist feat. Stephanie Horton
    44:00

    Previously at FarFetch & Shopbop, Stephanie Horton explains the fundamentals that go into a fashion business, why there are no shortcuts when it comes to e-commerce and the things she looks for in an employee. 

    Dec 26, 2018
    S1 EP13: What's A Word Worth?
    01:07:15
    Dec 12, 2018
    S1 EP12: A Sit Down with Heron Preston
    48:37

    Heron Preston tells the story of how he and Virgil went from Myspace friends to joining New Guards Group, the company that launched his namesake brand Heron Preston. 

    Nov 28, 2018
    S1 EP11: Outlier's Menswear Designer: Willie Norris
    01:05:01

    Starting his career at Maria Cornejo and then eventually landing at OUTLIER, Willie tells us about his life hack to entering the industry and why textiles are so important to his current employer.

    Nov 14, 2018
    S1 EP10: Driely Carter: Fighting for Photography
    01:10:59

    A very candid look at the business of fashion photography. Working in-house for commercial clients like Pharell, Beyonce & Kanye West, Driely Carter explains why magazine editorials make no money, the scam of sponsored content and how the fashion industry has survived on free work.

    Oct 31, 2018
    S1 EP9: Rag & Bone's Senior Designer: Maureen Saturne
    01:05:45

    Maureen explains the role of a Technical Designer. She describes her role as the “engineer” to the designers; the importance of the Tech Pak and why ready-to-wear brands cannot compete with the fast fashion calendar. 

     

     

    Oct 10, 2018
    S1 EP8: Live at the Hoxton Hotel
    01:42:02

    The first live podcast at the Hoxton Hotel in Williamsburg Brooklyn. Recho Omondi sits down with young designers Christopher John Rogers and his partner David Rivera, Suzzan Atala of Tuza Jewelry and Josh Allen of Richard & Grace. 

    Sep 26, 2018
    S1 EP7: What's a Creative Director Ft. Michelle Blioux
    01:13:55
    Sep 19, 2018
    S1 EP6: Meet My Right Hand feat. Sabla Stays
    53:05

    Meet my design assistant of 3 years. This recorded on her last week at OMONDI. 

    Sep 05, 2018
    S1 EP5: What Does Vogue Believe In? ft. Mikelle Street
    59:49
    Aug 08, 2018
    S1 EP4: Diet Prada: Fashion's Vigilantes
    01:05:52

    Omondi sits down with Tony Liu and Lindsey Schuyler, the duo behind the infamous instagram account @diet_prada

    Jul 12, 2018
    S1 EP3: Bethann Hardison: Keeping The Industry Colorful
    01:14:10
    Jun 20, 2018
    S1 EP2: Matthew Henson: Everybody Wants To Be a Stylist
    01:11:23

    Today we are talking with Matthew Henson about what it means to be a stylist to his clients being A$AP Rocky and The Weeknd. We discuss how Henson’s time directing Mens’ Editorial for Complex Magazine led him to develop a specific skill-set and a unique eye that are key to curating the perfect image.

    Jun 05, 2018
    S1 EP1: Who Killed The Fashion Critic? Feat Julie Zerbo & Emilia Petrarca
    01:04:12

    In our first episode, we speak with The Fashion Law’s Julie Zerbo and New York Mag; The Cut’s Emilia Petrarca about what it means to be critical of fashion in a world where everyone’s opinion has a platform. This episode takes a real look at the shortcomings of modern fashion journalism and why it is important to remain knowledgeable and critical of the fashion industry today.

     

    May 22, 2018